Re: Yosemite rookie looking for advice

Hi folks.

I'm coming out to Yosemite for the first time at the end of July and I'm looking for itinerary suggestions. My girlfriend and I are relatively inexperienced (recently- I did lots of Boy Scout stuff in the day, but it's been 15 years) but pretty fit and athletic.

I'm mostly looking for suggestions for good 2-night or 3-night backpacking trips. We would be hitting the trails on July 29 or 30, so all major trailheads are fully reserved. (Except first-come-first-serve: what's the word on getting those and how early does it need to happen). We don't want anything super-strenuous. We aren't hard-up to see the essentials, unless they are really worth it. We will probably day-hike the Valley on the first day and spend the first night in the backpackers campground. Once we're out in the woods, I imagine we'll have plenty of quiet.

If anyone has good general info on dealing with pre-hiking logistics, that would be appreciated. Is the backpacker campground just drive up and claim a spot? How to pay? How is parking at the Trailheads? What to do for a day before starting the overnight hike?

I've gotten some suggestions for what seem like good 3-day hikes (Glacier to Red Peak Pass was mentioned somewhere else; Glacier to Buena Vista).

There's a fair chance this will be our only time in Yosemite, being east coasters.

Thanks for any help and suggestions!

My standard answer to this question is to see the essentials. They are worth it. Skip backpacking since its your first trip and you're more than likely not acclimated. Tour the valley as you mentioned, day hike to nevada falls, going up the mist trail. Go to glacier point, stopping by Taft point along the way. Go to the mariposa grove of big trees. Maybe go to Tioga pass and day hike up to Gaylor lakes.

+1 for what The Other Tom said!

The essential "classic" Yosemite sights can be seen and done in a single day. (Just ask any tour bus operator.)

Then what?

If someone wants to backpack in Yosemite on their first visit, why try to dissuade them?

My only concern is if they're relatively new and inexperienced with backpacking itself. If that's the case, I would first recommend that they try car camping. Car camping would also provide a safe and easy opportunity for them to test a lot of their backpacking gear (stove, tents, sleeping bags). Everything but their backpacks. Also for newbie backpackers, I wouldn't recommend more than a two-night trip.

On the other hand, if a group of experienced backpackers is visiting Yosemite for the very first time, why not go backpacking for most of their stay?

My suggestion to NakedT would be to stay at a first-come/first-served campground in Yosemite for at least the first night. If one arrives in Yosemite by 1:00 PM on Sunday thru Thursday, finding a campsite at one of the first come/first served campgrounds shouldn't prove to be too difficult.

Then I would suggest that NakedT and his girlfriend have a good talk with a Wilderness ranger at the Yosemite Valley Wilderness Center. After the ranger gets a good understanding of their probable backpacking skills, the ranger would be able to suggest an appropriate backpacking trip that they could embark on the next day.

Yes, all the major TH reserved spots are taken, but by starting out on a backpacking trip on a Monday or Tuesday (as NakedT is planning to do), there ought to be plenty of first-come/first-served spaces available at trailheads that would be appropriate to his (and his girlfriend) skill level.

.

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plawrence
The essential "classic" Yosemite sights can be seen and done in a single day. (Just ask any tour bus operator.)

Then what?

If someone wants to backpack in Yosemite on their first visit, why try to dissuade them?

My only concern is if they're relatively new and inexperienced with backpacking itself. If that's the case, I would first recommend that they try car camping. Car camping would also provide a safe and easy opportunity for them to test a lot of their backpacking gear (stove, tents, sleeping bags). Everything but their backpacks. Also for newbie backpackers, I wouldn't recommend more than a two-night trip.

On the other hand, if a group of experienced backpackers is visiting Yosemite for the very first time, why not go backpacking for most of their stay?

My suggestion to NakedT would be to stay at a first-come/first-served campground in Yosemite for at least the first night. If one arrives in Yosemite by 1:00 PM on Sunday thru Thursday, finding a campsite at one of the first come/first served campgrounds shouldn't prove to be too difficult.

Then I would suggest that NakedT and his girlfriend have a good talk with a Wilderness ranger at the Yosemite Valley Wilderness Center. After the ranger gets a good understanding of their probable backpacking skills, the ranger would be able to suggest an appropriate backpacking trip that they could embark on the next day.

Yes, all the major TH reserved spots are taken, but by starting out on a backpacking trip on a Monday or Tuesday (as NakedT is planning to do), there ought to be plenty of first-come/first-served spaces available at trailheads that would be appropriate to his (and his girlfriend) skill level.

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I have a reply further down with some details on what I've done. We've done some car camping recently, I'm good with a campsite/stove/etc, she's less experienced but a focused athlete. Currently had planned to spend one night in the backpackers campsite the night before setting out. Checking in with the rangers seems like a logical step. I've read mixed things about them: some say they aren't interested in being a tour guide/trip planner and you should know what you're asking for. Folks here suggest they are happy to help figure things out with you.

I figure geting FCFS won't be too challenging since we're likely arriving on Monday.

Thanks!

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NakedT

I have a reply further down with some details on what I've done. We've done some car camping recently, I'm good with a campsite/stove/etc, she's less experienced but a focused athlete. Currently had planned to spend one night in the backpackers campsite the night before setting out. Checking in with the rangers seems like a logical step. I've read mixed things about them: some say they aren't interested in being a tour guide/trip planner and you should know what you're asking for. Folks here suggest they are happy to help figure things out with you.

I figure geting FCFS won't be too challenging since we're likely arriving on Monday.

Thanks!

As an introduction to backpacking in Yosemite, the itinerary that mrcondron suggested in another post is an excellent one:

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mrcondron

McGurk Meadow Trailhead off of Glacier Point Road down to the footbridge on Bridalveil Creek for two nights.
Dayhike west to Dewey Point on one day then east to Taft Point and the Fissures on the other then out.

Good views and interesting stuff, not too long under a pack, and pretty easy dayhikes. There will be water in BV Creek.

If you followed that itinerary there won't be a whole lot of elevation gain or loss (at least compared to most Yosemite hikes) and on the day hikes from your campsite you'll have the opportunity to see some exceptional views of Yosemite Valley from the top of its south wall. And best yet, there appears still to be wilderness permits that can be reserved ahead of time for that trailhead (McGurk Meadow) for the dates you're seeking!

If you chose this itinerary, I would suggest that you stay your first night (if there's a campsite available) at the extremely close-by Bridalveil Creek Campground. The Bridalveil Creek Campground is a first-come, first-served (no advance reservations) campground but there's a very good chance that there would be a campsite available if your arrive by 1:00 PM on either Sunday or Monday. If you'll be heading out the McGurk Meadow Trailhead the next morning, staying at the Bridalveil Creek Campground would be superior than staying at the backpackers campgrounds in either Yosemite Valley or Tuolumne Meadows, IMHO.

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When you say "relatively" inexperienced, does that apply to hiking as well as backpacking, or just backpacking, and how inexperienced is "relatively"? And, when you were in the Boy Scouts, was it in a mountainous area of the 'east coast'? Trying to get a sense of what you mean by "strenuous" - thousands of feet vertical in a day as in some parts of the Smokies, or hundreds?

How long do you have in Yosemite total?



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 07/01/2013 05:51PM by ttilley.

Try Rancheria Falls in Hetch Hetchy. It's a nine mile moderate hike along Hetch Hetchy reservoir. There's a back campers camp right there at the trailhead also. Very scenic.

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healeygirl
Try Rancheria Falls in Hetch Hetchy. It's a nine mile moderate hike along Hetch Hetchy reservoir.

That might be a bit warm for the end of July.

For your 1st time, take the tour bus for day 1, day 2 hike Necada Falls, day 3 hike upper Yosemite. If you definately Want to backpack, get to a ranger station where they issue wilderness permits around 5am. They supposedly keep 30% of the permits for walk-ins. Have fun. Before you know it, you'll be planning your 2nd trip.h

As I've done before I will say again that as first timers you will get more out of seeing the essentials of Yosemite mixed w/ some day hikes than picking one trail to backpack on for 3 days. It would take 3 days to do Mariposa Grove, Glacier Point, the Valley, Tioga Road to Tenaya Lake and Tuolumne Meadows, Tioga Pass, plus at least two good day hikes,----and you will be worn out. If you are from back east like me you are essentially sea level folks. This means you have little experience with the altitudes found in the High Sierra. A couple of day hikes, including the Mist Trail up past Vernal and Nevada Falls, will be an eye opener introduction to altitude and dehydration issues common in Yosemite. At 4,000' the Valley floor is lower than most mountains back east. Tuolumne Meadows is 8,600'.

Seeing the essentials will give you a much greater appreciation of Yosemite as a first timer. Once you have done this many of us on this site doubt it will be your only trip to Yosemite. You will be back! While there the first time pick up a book on hiking Yosemite trails and buy some Nat'l Geo Trails Illustrated maps of the area through REI on-line. Then go to the Nat'l Park website for Yosemite and acquaint yourself with the entire permit process. Next time you will be better prepared and have an idea what to expect on the trails while lugging backpacks in the high country. Trust us and enjoy.

McGurk Meadow Trailhead off of Glacier Point Road down to the footbridge on Bridalveil Creek for two nights.
Dayhike west to Dewey Point on one day then east to Taft Point and the Fissures on the other then out.

Good views and interesting stuff, not too long under a pack, and pretty easy dayhikes. There will be water in BV Creek.

Go do all the drive to things also. Tenaya Lake and the domage, TM maybe, Olmstead Point, Glacier Point, Tuolumne Grove, Merced Grove, or Mariposa Grove if you get that far south. Do the valley on the first day.

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Old Dude

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ttilley
When you say "relatively" inexperienced, does that apply to hiking as well as backpacking, or just backpacking, and how inexperienced is "relatively"? And, when you were in the Boy Scouts, was it in a mountainous area of the 'east coast'? Trying to get a sense of what you mean by "strenuous" - thousands of feet vertical in a day as in some parts of the Smokies, or hundreds?

How long do you have in Yosemite total?

It's always a challenge to describe myself. In Boy Scouts, the most we did was two night weekend trips in the base of the Appalachians. Probably did 10 of those over the couple years. I wasn't particularly aware of elevation changes at the time, or at least not in vertical feet. I've been to Boundary Waters twice for about 7 nights each time- most recently two summers ago. Done a little car camping (Grand Canyon with day hikes) last summer. I haven't hiked in with a backpack in maybe 5 years. I know my way around a campsite- tents, sleeping pads, hammocks, etc. Decent with a stove.

That might help a little. My girlfriend played soccer in college. I play a lot of Ultimate (more work than you probably think). We both trained for a half-marathon in the spring. We're pretty athletic, but more on the endurance side, rather than strength. That can go either way with a backpack! Thin air will definitely be a challenge. I imagine we can do more than a vast majority of Americans, but that's not saying much.

Current plan (before posting this) was to arrive late morning Monday the 29th, do some combo of 4 mile, Panorama, Mist, stay in backpackers campground. Tuesday- into the woods. Thursday- out of the woods. Need to be an hour north of Reno for wedding weekend late afternoon Friday. Could possibly a day earlier, Sunday, pending other vacation plans. Still working on how long and what to do in Bay Area beforehand.

Here's an interesting route to consider:
Backpack from Yosemite Valley to Tuolumne Meadows via Cloud's Rest and Sunrise Lakes, and return to the valley on the YARTS bus.
- On Monday, try to get a first come first serve permit for Tuesday from Happy Isles to Little Yosemite Valley or the through-permit. If you can get a Half Dome permit, great! Explore the valley, do part of the 4 mile hike, etc. Stay overnight in the backpacker campground.
- if you get the permit for Tuesday, start at Happy Isles, climb the Mist Trail and set up camp at Little Yosemite Valley (that is your permit). Climb Half Dome if you have the permit. Otherwise, if you have the through permit continue onwards (towards Cloud's Rest) and camp on Sunrise Creek.
- Next day continue onwards towards Cloud's Rest. Camp at Sunrise Lakes. You could stay on the JMT and camp at Cathedral Lakes, but route is likely to be dry, so I wouldn't recommend it for this trip.
- On Thurs morning hike out towards Tenaya Lake and catch the free shuttle to TM and the Yarts back the valley. If you start out early enough you'll have some time to wander around TM.

You sound pretty fit, so don't sell yourself short.....The mileage is relatively low. Note: Sea-level athletes tend to perform at the extremes at altitude..their fitness lets them continue beyond where mere mortals go, but if they "bonk" they'll crash harder. You won't be at altitude until the 2nd or 3rd day, so as long as you hydrate well, you should be fine.

Have fun!

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NakedT

Current plan (before posting this) was to arrive late morning Monday the 29th, do some combo of 4 mile, Panorama, Mist...

The Glacier Point/Sentinel Dome/Taft Point area is well worth visiting and there are quite a few ways you could do it:

-- Drive up and park in the Taft Point-Sentinel Dome lot. It tends to get full, though there'll be people coming and going throughout the day. From there you can easily hike to Taft Point and/or up Sentinel Dome or even to Glacier Point. This is a popular option so there'll be lots of other people, but you also have multiple choices of how far to go and how long to spend.

-- Drive past the Taft Point lot and park at Glacier Point instead. It's a bigger lot and less likely to fill up. The views are already spectacular, including down into the Valley. You can get to Sentinel Dome pretty easily if you want, and the Pohono Trail to Taft Point goes through some lovely, tall mixed-conifer forest. It goes around the "back" side of Sentinel Dome so there'll be lots fewer people there.

-- Take the bus up to Glacier Point and walk down. Buses run from Yosemite Lodge 3x a day, cost $25 per person one way, and you should probably reserve your seats at least a day ahead. Routes down include the Four Mile Trail (approx. 5 miles, 3200' elevation drop, my personal favorite) and the Panorama Trail (about 8 miles with options to make it a little longer). The Panorama Trail takes you to the top of Nevada Fall and you can come down past Vernal Fall if you like. Little Yosemite Valley isn't far from the top of Nevada Fall so you could conceivably even start your backpacking trip at Glacier Point.

-- If you really want to put in a full day, walk up the Four Mile and down the Panorama (or vice-versa). There's water (and ice cream) at Glacier Point but on the way up, you'll need to carry your own. I start out carrying 3 quarts and usually have a little left over. I prefer to drink my first pint plain, the second pint with a Nuun tablet in it, then alternate. There are shallow spots above Nevada Fall where you can safely filter more water, as long as a kid doesn't trip on your suction hose.

Here's a hiking map of the Glacier Point area... http://www.nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/upload/glacierhikes.pdf ...but if possible, open it directly with Adobe Reader. Firefox tends to choke or crash on it. Here's a similar map centered on the Valley: http://www.nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/upload/valleyhikes1.pdf

Have a great trip, however you work it, and let us know what you end up doing!

There is little correlation between level of physical fitness and the ability to adjust to altitude. A couch potato could adjust better than a marathon runner. Go to http://www.altituderesearch.org/traveling-to-altitude/113 and http://www.altitudemedicine.org/index.php/altitude-medicine/stay-well-at-altitude for some good information.

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parklover
There is little correlation between level of physical fitness and the ability to adjust to altitude. A couch potato could adjust better than a marathon runner. Go to http://www.altituderesearch.org/traveling-to-altitude/113 and http://www.altitudemedicine.org/index.php/altitude-medicine/stay-well-at-altitude for some good information.

+1
That's one reason I recommend skipping backpacking for a first time visitor. Just enjoy the sights.

Make sure you're allowing enough time to see the day-trippable sights, as plenty of others are suggesting. There are a lot of full-day hikes you could do without committing to reaching a destination with a pack on.

If you want an overnight trip I think I'd limit the backpacking vertical to around 1000' per day (at least w/ pack) - your stated experience suggests hundreds rather than thousands of feet. Old Dude's McGurk Meadow fits, I think Jayabrams' recommendations do as well (assuming Clouds Rest as a dayhike from Sunrise).

Day-before permit pickup begins at 11 AM, not sure how long the line is.

So much to do...so little time. There is alot of GREAT advice here from some very experienced locals. You won't go wrong following any of these suggestions. But ultimately, it's on you.

Here's my 2 cents worth. Looking at your itinerary, fitness level, and mountain experience, I would suggest a combo of whats been suggested above. IMHO all first time visitors MUST visit the valley and do the basic tourist thing. It's painful being around so many people, but the glory of the Valley is worth it. Like it was stated above, you can easily spend three days exploring while camping at your car.

But if the wilderness calls.....

Get into the Park and head straight to the wilderness office. Once you deal with this, you can relax and enjoy the valley for the day. Backcountry permits are available at 10am for trips beginning the next day, so if you arrive early enough you should have a nice selection of trips/trailheads to choose from. Be prepared with 3 or more ideas and be open to suggestions from the rangers. If you have done the Mist trail and gone to see Bridal Veil and Yosemite Falls as day hikes your first day, look to the Tuolumne Meadows/Tioga Pass area for your backpacking. Cathedral Lakes to Sunrise with a trip to Clouds Rest would be nice. Down to Glen Aulin and the GC of the Tuolumne is awesome, among many others. You really can't go wrong.

My biggest suggestion is to try not to do too much. Too many miles, with big elevation gain, at 9,000+ feet can really take the enjoyment out of a trip. If you are not used to the altitude it can be easy to set your goals way too high. Take your time and enjoy!

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"It is all very beautiful and magical here - a quality which cannot be described. You have to live it and breath it., let the sun bake it into you" - Ansel Adams

Our 1st trip to the Valley, we took our barbecue, lawn chairs & cooler. We sat in the meadow across from Yosemite Falls & barbecued. A Buck went through :-) While we were sitting there, that flat bed trailer with all the folks sitting in chairs. We waved to them, they waved back, big smiles on both sides. What a way to see the valley, sitting out in the open air. Wish we would have done that 1st. Have a great time.

Thanks for the discussion everyone. I'm reading each and every one, even if I don't reply to each. We are pretty certain we will do some backpacking of some sort, but are definitely considering all of the concerns and route suggestions. We're pretty excited about it all, no matter what happens!

You got some good advice.

My words of wisdom are simply this:
Are you an AVID backpacker?

If yes... then go crazy and definitely do a backpack.
If no... then probably just stick to the FCFS camping opps. and dayhike.

Somebody asked this sorta thing elsewhere and purty much I said
the same thing. When Z wifie and I went to Glacier NP years ago...
I HAD to backpack... and quite simply it was an awesome experience...
but it really wasn't very much better than the 4 other long dayhikes we
did.... simply because there was so much to see and explore in Glacier.
Yosemite is the same way... ridiculous number of things to see and
explore...

Have fun planning
(you can't really go wrong... or see it all in one trip... so don't fret too much)

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As a fellow East coaster and noob who just returned from a twelve day odyssey that ranged from Hetch Hetchy to Glen Aulin to Little Yosemite Valley up Half Dome finishing with Ostrander Lake and Mariposa Grove I would simply say you can not go wrong with any of it. Personally i would stay away from Hetch Hetchy. It was absolutely beautiful but we started there and the rest of the time it was referred to as Africa hot. Reasonably good shape would be a stretch for me but i did make it up the Mist Trail, did an overnight at LYV and went up Half Dome the next day. Being an acrophobic did not make it any easier but it was well worth the purest fear i have ever experienced. Bang for the buck, I am going back to Glen Aulin for an overnight, incredible views on the trail, plenty of water and a spectactular finish, swimming with my kids in and under a waterfall. As a wise bird once told me before i left...have fun
Glacier, Taft and Olmstead Points are all musts that can be done with the car, go early and avoid the crowds. Also do not stop looking at this site every day until you leave. I can not express to you how important the people on this site were to ensuring that my family was able to maximize its time in one of the great wonders of the world!
PS- dont miss the pizza at Curry Village

I told Z Old Dood 2 weekends ago when we were hiking around Too-ol-um-eeeee....
"Well... I'm purty sure I told Patsfan to maybe not go to Rancheria in July .... it gonna be H.O.T. there!"
(I think you hit the heat wave smack on too btw)

Anywho... glad you had fun...

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chick-on


I told Z Old Dood 2 weekends ago when we were hiking around Too-ol-um-eeeee....
"Well... I'm purty sure I told Patsfan to maybe not go to Rancheria in July .... it gonna be H.O.T. there!"
(I think you hit the heat wave smack on too btw)

Anywho... glad you had fun...

We dont hear too much about the weather in Yosemite on the other coast but my wife got a message from her dad that it was on the local weather at home the day we went to Rancheria Falls. We did not get to camp at the site you suggested, small scramble down hill after campground ahead sign. We either missed the sign or it is not there anymore, i even printed the map you sent and brought it with me. It was all good after we were neck deep in water! FYI- for plawrence, due to the heat we did swim but I told my kids to pee before they went in the water! Also after going to the footbridge i realized the photo i saw of someone jumping may have been the last photo ever taken of that person...YIKES!
If i figure out how to post pics on here i will... thats a lie, the boss will though!

This is all very good advice and I will just reiterate that you should do what calls to you.
If backpacking in the woods is what does it, then pick a route. If you could take or leave long walks with a pack on your back, then do not miss the top sights.
I actually will be in the park the same time, arriving the 28th - but staying in the High country at Tuolumne Meadows.

We used to visit YNP once or twice yearly, but have missed the last few years and are very excited to get back.
The valley has great sights and beauty, but is hotter and more congested with people and traffic than TM.
I personally like to get in a long distance day hike or two when there. I missed out on a Half Dome permit, and
am thinking of Tioga Road to Valley via Yosemite Falls [creek]. If you are staying in the valley you could catch the bus and get dropped off and do the hike back to the backpackers campground. I on the other hand will need to coordinate a ride.
I'd love to hike to Happy Isles by way of Half Dome and Sunrise starting at Tenaya Lake, but it looks a bit intense for a day hike and I would still require the permit(s).

Enjoy your trip!

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streger
This is all very good advice and I will just reiterate that you should do what calls to you.
If backpacking in the woods is what does it, then pick a route. If you could take or leave long walks with a pack on your back, then do not miss the top sights.
I actually will be in the park the same time, arriving the 28th - but staying in the High country at Tuolumne Meadows.

We used to visit YNP once or twice yearly, but have missed the last few years and are very excited to get back.
The valley has great sights and beauty, but is hotter and more congested with people and traffic than TM.
I personally like to get in a long distance day hike or two when there. I missed out on a Half Dome permit, and
am thinking of Tioga Road to Valley via Yosemite Falls [creek]. If you are staying in the valley you could catch the bus and get dropped off and do the hike back to the backpackers campground. I on the other hand will need to coordinate a ride.
I'd love to hike to Happy Isles by way of Half Dome and Sunrise starting at Tenaya Lake, but it looks a bit intense for a day hike and I would still require the permit(s).

Enjoy your trip!

We were fortunate enough to get a HD permit through the lottery but the AFRICA hot weather swayed us to change our plans and cancel Eagle Peak/ El Cap hike. We figured the line for the permits would be ridiculously long but apparently so did everyone else. We were third in line and nobody in front of us was looking for Half Dome permits. We came out of Glen Aulin and drove down to the valley that morning arriving after 10am. This noob thinks if you want Half Dome on your itinerary just check the line. We got the permit and LYV campsite for two nights. A fluid plan is the best plan...just sayn'

Here's the link to my trip review post. Thanks to everyone for the help!

http://yosemitenews.info/forum/read.php?3,69076