Re: North Peak / Conness Conditions

Looking for some beta on the conditions around Saddlebag Lake, especially for North Peak, Mount Conness, and White Mountain. Do the "normal" (easier class 2-3) routes require crampons/axe? Has anyone checked out the couloirs on North Peak and can comment on their conditions?

I'm probably going to check them out regardless, but would love some information to smartly prepare my load...

Any information or pictures would be greatly appreciated,
Ben

Conness is high enough that carrying crampons would be prudent. Even in late August, just to be on the safe side. Never hurts to be extra-prepared.

If he went via Youngs then no way you need crampons.

But he's going via Saddlebag Rd... so dunno about that. But I doubt it.

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I hiked up Conness on Saturday via Alpine Lake and the east ridge. There was no snow until the bowl at about 11,700 below the east ridge. This was easily avoidable by contouring around to the east up a shoulder to gain the ridge. There was also a short stretch of snow right before the short scramble up to the summit plateau.

Looking back down the east ridge from near the summit plateau.


There was some snow remaining on the plateau and another small stretch right before gaining the summit. I felt comfortable with only trekking poles.





Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 06/25/2012 02:29PM by edg.

edg, do you have any photos of what you'd consider the hairiest parts (not counting snow) from the summit plateau up to the summit? I was thinking of going up Conness this summer (from Young Lakes though).

This is the only photo I have of the ridge connecting the summit with the plateau. I'll see if my buddy took any photos along the ridge.

It's not as bad as it looks; all class 1/2. There are only two places that felt 'airy' to me.




Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 06/25/2012 02:30PM by edg.

Thanks, edg. Looks like a spectacular trip.

Here's what I would consider the hairiest part:

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edg
Here's what I would consider the hairiest part:

Thanks, edg. Is that only a small section where one would should use hands making the climb, or is it like that for a while? Hard to believe there was once an official trail (I think I saw it on one of chick-on's maps from the 1930s).

It's similar in style to that photo from the plateau up to the summit, though not with the same amount of exposure. Hands aren't really necessary to climb most of it, just for extra balance and support around the exposed areas. I would call it class 2.

I had no idea there was once a maintained trail up Conness; very cool!

The second photo way above is incredible.

Here's a link to the map:
http://yosemitenews.info/forum/read.php?3,45865,46197#msg-46197

(it's not "my" map per sey... i just "aquired" it)

And here's a photo of the last section area with Old Dude in it for scale:
http://yosemitenews.info/forum/read.php?3,45865,45872#msg-45872

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Quote
chick-on
i just "aquired"

Has acquired ever been used in a positive way? In my experience, which granted is quite limited, its usually used by thieves who say:
"i acquired it"
"oh ya, how so?"
"well it fell of the back of a truck..."

Its really on par with someone saying:
"whats new?"
"well I acquired herpes"


Anyways, seriously, those old maps are cool. Thank you for sharing them with us!

If people only knew... they would be laughing as much as I am.


I spelled it wrong and put it in quotes... for a reason...

Seriously though... all of the maps are public domain or readily available.
If anyone who "owns" them gives me a hard time... I'll just say "give me two seconds and
I will delete them all as your wish".

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Very cool. Did you also head over to North Peak? I hear looking down towards the east, the drop-off, is incredible.

Quote
Ohnivy-Drak
Very cool. Did you also head over to North Peak? I hear looking down towards the east, the drop-off, is incredible.

Nope, Conness's north ridge down to the saddle with North Peak is a bit more exposed and technical than what I'm ready to climb at this point. Judging by the register though, it is a very popular traverse.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 06/18/2012 02:14PM by edg.