I almost didn't want to write this trip report, since it turned out such a disaster when I had big plans of doing 3 weeks in Yosemite and the Ansel Adams Wilderness.
Early last month I got what seemed like a mild respiratory infection, but decided against seeing a doctor since I didn't have a fever, chills, or anything like that. A couple of weeks before my scheduled trip to the park I was feeling normal again and figured the trip was A-ok. The first night I stayed in the TM backpackers camp and slept like a log (really nice low 30s temperature felt great when I'm used to sleeping in high 70s, low 80s with mid 70s dewpoints in South Texas). Second day I hiked out to Mono Pass with a full pack and a week's of food; about 40 lbs, so not especially light, but not a backbreaking load either. Progress was a little slow, but I didn't think much of it since my first day out on a trail is usually kind of tough coming from 800 feet elevation in San Antonio. Had no headache, my appetite was great (e.g., was eating 3200 calories or so per day in days 1 & 2), etc. Made sure to drink lots of water to keep hydrated, since I know that's critical at altitude. By the time I got to Mono Pass the winds were really howling and filled my sinuses pretty good with mucus (I guess from the pine pollen).
Sleep that night was really lousy, and I got up at 4am and decided to go hike up the south face of Gibbs (I have always heard 'climb high, sleep low' for acclimation). My sinuses cleared right up and I felt great again, but right as I came to the highpoint of the south shoulder (~12,150 feet or so) I looked down and noticed my fingers were really swollen. Since I have never had that happen and I had never read about it, I became concerned and headed back down to camp about 10,700 or so near Mono Pass, and the swelling was gone within an hour of getting back. However, my appetite was really lousy this third day, which is another strike on my checklist for AMS. I figured if I couldn't get a good night's sleep again, it would be time to go back in the morning. Did a short dayhike out to the Sardine Lakes from there, but mostly it was a rest day to hope I could start acclimating.
Winds and full sinuses returned, and by night I started feeling like I had crap in my lungs, got really tired just digging and using a cathole, had trouble breathing at rest with a really fast heartbeat at rest, had a kind of a drunken walk, and a dry cough. Those symptoms just screamed HAPE, and I knew it was time to leave right then. I know HAPE never improves and waiting it out could have proved deadly. I carefully packed everything up (but still left a pair of gloves! ARGGGHH!) and left about midnight. Thankfully I had pumped a gallon of water right after forcing down a small dinner, anticipating that I might have to leave in the morning.
The hike back to the road was very very slow. My stride was probably 1/3rd of my normal hiking stride, and I was needing to stop every 100 feet or so to take minute or two breaks to catch my breath. I eventually got back to the trailhead and waited a couple of hours for sunrise in the bathroom (didn't want to dig out my sleeping bag when there was another alternative to stay warm), then hitched a ridge to TM. The 900 feet or so difference between the Tioga Pass area at the trailhead and Mono Pass seemed to make a pretty good difference in my breathing, and the difference was night and day by the time I was at 8600 feet at TM. My appetite had finally returned so I had breakfast, but figured it best to take the YARTS down to the valley that morning and head back to Texas.
A few questions: has anyone had similar experiences? E.g., I wonder if the clogged sinuses (and thus, much lower level of oxygen being delivered to my body because of them) contributed to the HAPE symptoms, or if that is something strictly related to the air pressure? Or is it even known? I realize that minor infection that I thought I completely kicked probably strongly predisposed me to getting it also. I have never had so much as a headache camping at 9000ft+ nor dayhiking up to 11,000, but I got hit pretty hard this time (first time camping at 10,700 feet). Funniest thing was the best I felt on the entire trip was at 12,000 when going up Gibbs.
Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 08/17/2012 12:01PM by mbear.