Thanks for the advice everyone. My wife and I had a blast. I expected it to be gorgeous but I didn't realize it was going to be that gorgeous. It's the first time I've gone backpacking, not made it all the way to any of my desired destinations, but still came back ecstatic.
We started encountering small patches of snow at LYV and longer stretches of snow approaching the HD subdome, 9000 ft or so on the west side of Clouds Rest and on the east side of Bunell Point. We lugged snowshoes but only used them to goof off on some of the bigger patches. People who went to the top of HD, and all the way to Merced Lake said they did have any problems moving over the snow in those areas, but I did run into a group on the trail that said they used them constantly in the Sunrise Lakes area. I don't know how much snow fell yesterday, but LYV had about half an inch on the ground in the morning.
So here's the trip report I promised. Pics later
Day 1:
Lolly-gagged, which was par for the course the entire trip. I blame the scenery. Mist trail to the area at the eastern end of LYV. With the snowshoes, camera and winter gear both my wife and I's packs were astonishingly heavy. I think we left the valley around 10 and made it to camp around 4. My pack was around 60lbs, hers probably around 35. Saw a bear and her cubs across the valley around dinner time, my first time seeing a wild bear. Had to use bug spray here, the mosquitoes were annoying until the sun went down.
Day 2:
Merced Lake was the goal, but a stroll to the east side of Bunnell point was the result. Full vacation mode in effect we rolled out of camp a bit after noon and got back around 4. I think I post-holled once on a 5 foot section of snow that I could have walked around. Very gorgeous area and I wish that I hadn't been so lackadaisical in the morning. Next time... After we got back we packed up camp and headed to LYV to facilitate an 'early' start for Clouds Rest the next morning. More mosquitoes, but only until sundown again. We ran into several groups that had come from Merced Lake and none encountered significant snow.
Day 3:
Rolled out of camp around 8, snowshoes in tow again. I had checked the weather the night before and knew a storm was coming, but not when. We ditched our snowshoes around 8000'. It was kind of astonishing how big a difference 5lbs made on our pace and we moved fast up the next set of switchbacks. Those damn snowshoes. I think I started getting concerned about the weather at around when we dropped the snowshoes and we (I) fled in terror at about 9200'. In my defense the weather said 5 inches of snow were possible at 6000' and I was positive we were going to die. We had looked over at the subdome and were pretty surprised at the amount of snow that was on it (and leading up to it) so at this point I was pretty dejected. Of course by the time we got back to the clouds rest junction the weather was looking much better and by the time we hit the Half Dome junction I was looking for shade. Frustrating, but we had seen people on the cables from the trail, so we decided to have lunch and give it a shot. Of course the weather got crappy again just as we got on top of the shoulder leading to the steps of the subdome and we fled again. The forecast lied through it's teeth again, claiming 60-80mph winds and 2 inches of snow at 6000ft that night, so I guyed out my tent in terror and considered how many of the people in LYV with their summer tents were going to die that night.
Day 4:
No wind and the 2 inches of snow turned out to be just a rime. We took the JMT back down and enjoyed the views throughly. I wanted to jump into the river to avoid the throngs of humanity on the half mile of the trail. Holy cow.
I don't regret bringing the snowshoes I suppose, since I doubt shaving 5lbs or so off our packs would have made us more ambitious, if I had to change anything in retrospect I would have probably camped all 3 nights in the same spot and just stuck to one area. From what I saw it didn't seem like you could go wrong anywhere. Lighter packs would have been nice, but we used everything we brought.